BLOGA creative, next-generation dish2019.04.25

"Three-in-one egg" created by Mr. Hiroshi Sasaki, the owner and head chef of Gion Sasaki

"Three-in-one egg": a creative, unique dish

Pufferfish soft roe uses for the egg white and sea urchin for the yolk, and homemade Japanese caviar is placed on top.

In this feature, famous Japanese chefs in Kyoto will make an unexpected, creative dish that is beyond the scope of Washoku. You will be surprised by its idea without doubt as well as its appearance and taste. You will understand that the flexibility of these chefs plays an important role of preservation and popularity of Washoku culture in Kyoto.

In the first feature, Mr. Hiroshi Sasaki, the owner and head chef of Gion Sasaki will introduce us his creative dish. His attractive performances at the counter offer full of surprising to his customers. These performances are praised as "Sasaki Theater". His kind responses to each customer have been attracting many fans.

Secret behind the creation

I was pondering how to respond the request to make a surprising dish that people have never seen before while traveling by bullet train. This request actually bothered me a lot.

I have created my original Japanese caviar for two and a half years. The caviar was just completed in the summer of 2018. Therefore, I got an idea to use it as a main ingredient and create this "Three-in-one egg" dish.

Unlike common caviar, this Japanese caviar has soft, sticky threads. This is because it contains kelp. Mr. Motoo Sakamoto, CEO of Japan Caviar, produces and sells Japanese caviar in Miyazaki. He succeeded in making my original caviar through trial and error. The caviar that left for 90 days for maturing will provide intense flavor of caviar itself plus mineral flavor of kelp and its texture will become very smooth. Furthermore, these flavors will stay in your mouth for a long time. As it has a round palate, it goes well with vegetables and sashimi.

Caviar usually refers to roe from sturgeon. Surprisingly, it goes well with dishes made with chicken and fish eggs. So, I made a dish that was completely made with eggs including its appearance and ingredients this time. Pufferfish soft roe is strained and solidified with gelatin to create the egg white. A chicken egg shell is used to make an egg shape. It was difficult to provide moderate elasticity.

Sea urchin from Konbumori, Kushiro, Hokkaido is used to create the egg yolk. Only soy sauce and salt are used for seasonings so that you can enjoy intense umami out of sea urchin itself.

In addition, plenty of Japanese caviar is placed on the top. More than 15g caviar each dish that includes caviar will be used for a single customer at my restaurant. You cannot taste caviar if it is served a small amount of the size of the tip of a little finger. If you eat 15g caviar, you can enjoy its taste and will be satisfied with it.

Please have the caviar together with the sea urchin with a spoon. You will enjoy a nice pairing of rich sea urchin and gentle Japanese caviar with a pleasant broth flavor. Vodka with crushed ice and squeezed sudachi (green citrus fruit) juice will be the best with this "three-in-one egg" dish.

I myself like caviar so much that I have eaten four cans of caviar at once. I think caviar is the best among the world top three celebratory foods: caviar, foie gras, and truffle! Therefore, I thought to make caviar that went well with Washoku. I am considering selling Japanese caviar in the future.

The coming winter will be the best time to offer "three-in-one egg" dish at my restaurant because its three ingredients are in season during the winter. Should pufferfish soft roe be served warmed or chilled? There is still room for improvement for this dish. Please wait until winter comes to try my "three-in-one egg" dish.

■Gion Sasaki

Yasaka, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto Street Yamatooji 566-27, Komatsumachi, Higashi-Hairu, 605-0811
Close Every Sunday

Editors' Choice

Editors' Choice

At ryotei, it is possible to experience the aesthetic beauty of “quiet” with the five senses in each space, including the decorations in both tatami-mat rooms and floored rooms, the garden scenery, the movements of the hostess and waitresses, and the colors of seasonal moods. With regard to “cuisine,” it is possible to experience the aesthetic beauty of “movement” as you watch the food preparation and presentation process before your eyes while you sit at the counter, observing the actions of the head chef and his first and second assistants. In this segment, we introduce ryotei and cuisine selected from among restaurants that Kyoto CHISHIN editing staff have actually visited and where we can guarantee you will be able to “experience the beauty aesthetic of quiet and movement.”