In Kappo Chishin, famous Japanese chefs in Kyoto will make an unexpected, creative dish that is beyond the scope of Washoku. In this feature, Yoshiro Kiyama, the owner and chef of Kiyama will introduce us his special "Ravioli".
"Ravioli": a creative, unique dish
A sashimi platter of Red snapper roe wrapped with woven Oncorhynchus masou and Striped knifejaw.
After having worked as a head chef at Wakuden in Kyoto, Chef Yoshiro Kiyama opened his restaurant "Kiyama" in 2017. He courteously makes course meals using delicious water from the well on the premises and carefully-made broth as if each meal had a nice storyline every day.
Secret behind the creation
The idea of this dish was greatly inspired by modern Spanish cuisine. Before speaking about how I came up with the idea, I would like to explain what this "Ravioli" dish looks like first.
At the end of April when this dish was photographed for this article, it was the best season for Oncorhynchus masou and Striped knifejaw. In addition, it was the breeding season of Red snapper so that its high-quality, fresh roes are available on the market. For this dish, I purchased Oncorhynchus masou, Striped knifejaw, and Red snapper roe caught in Aomori, Ise, and Wakayama respectively.
I cut Oncorhynchus masou and Striped knifejaw into thin strips and made Red snapper roe block-shaped for this sashimi platter. After trial and error, I finally achieved the thickness and size of each ingredient.
Next, I wove the strips of Oncorhynchus masou and Striped knifejaw alternately. In modern Spanish cuisine, vegetables such as zucchini and paprika are often used for weaving.
Then, I wrapped block-shaped pieces of Red snapper roe with these woven strips.
After wrapping the roe with the woven strips, this dish was completed. Please enjoy it together with ponzu sauce made with homemade, rich-flavored soy sauce called Toromi-shoyu and grated ginger in just one bite. I achieved the quantity of grated ginger and soy sauce by trial and error too. I believe that you can enjoy the umami fusion, which the fluffy melting roe will appear out of the woven wrap and tangle with Oncorhynchus masou and Striped knifejaw like sauce. This is a new-style of sashimi platter that brings the best flavor out of each seasonal ingredient without clashing with other flavors, even when having all the seasonal ingredients together.
Meeting Chef David Vives Puig four or five years ago triggered my relationship with modern Spanish cuisine. David was the head chef at El Celler de Can Roca, a restaurant in Catalonia, Spain, when it was selected as the best restaurant of the top 50 restaurants in the world in 2015.
He has been presenting his modern Spanish dishes mainly made with Japanese ingredients and arranged on Japanese dishware at Godan Miyazawa, a famous Kyoto-style restaurant, for three days in February every year since 2016. He also came to my restaurant to present his dishes in 2018.
Before meeting him, I had the strong impression of molecular gastronomy towards modern Spanish cuisine, because scientific cooking methods, such as using foam and liquid nitrogen, are used for modern Spanish dishes. However, that is just part of modern Spanish dishes. These dishes are made with fresh ingredients including meat, fish and vegetables and chefs prioritize to bring the best flavor of each ingredient. I was astonished by the taste of a flatfish when I had it in Spain! This flatfish was simply drizzled olive oil on top and grilled. However, the dish brought out the best flavor of the flatfish, which tasted almost the same as the best Long-tooth grouper with full of fat.
In addition, modern Spanish cuisine has broth culture. Slowly-cooked broth made with mushroom, Iberian pig, or chicken is often used for its dishes.
I felt that modern Spanish cuisine and Washoku have in common everywhere. I have leant a lot from modern Spanish cuisine through David. My special "Ravioli" was derived from my idea to make a new-style of sashimi platter. I want to add additional touch to a sashimi platter, not just sliced fish on the platter. I want to make dishes inspired by modern Spanish cuisine from now on, not just this sashimi platter. I'm going to continuously serve this sashimi platter altering ingredients based on the season and using the new method of wrapping an ingredient with woven strips of other ingredients.
1F Weldoll Gosho,136 Kinuya-cho, Sakaimachi-dori Kudaru Nishigawa, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto.
Opening hours: 12:00-15:00 (Last entry: 13:30) and 18:00-22:00 (Last entry: 19:30)